YOUR CUSTOM MINIGUIDE FOR: Maui Fodor's
 
The second-largest island in the Hawaiian chain, lush Maui has become an international byword for tropical allure, heady nightlife, sports activities, and miles of silky-soft, white-sand beaches. Maui comes by this admirable reputation honestly: The island's 729 square mi contain Haleakala, a 10,023-ft dormant volcano whose misty summit beckons the adventurous; several villages where Hawaiian is still spoken; four major resort destinations that have set new standards for luxury; championship courses on the "Golf Coast" that draw eager putters; Lahaina, an old whaling port that still serves as one of the island's commercial crossroads; and more than 80,000 residents who work, play, and live on what they fondly call the Valley Isle.


Fodor's Essential
Attractions & Activities: Fodor's Top Picks

Major·Sights·and·Attractions
Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum. "A&B," Maui's largest landowner, was one of companies that spearheaded the planting, harvesting, and processing of sugarcane. Historic photos, artifacts, and documents explain the introduction of sugarcane to Hawaii and how plantation managers brought in laborers from other countries, thereby changing the Islands' ethnic mix. Exhibits also describe the sugar-making process. 3957 Hansen Rd., Puunene, tel. 808/871-8058. Admission: $4. Open Mon.-Sat. 9:30-4:30.

Baldwin Home. This plastered and whitewashed coral stone home was built in 1834-35; in 1836 Dr. Dwight Baldwin moved in with his family. The home is now run by the Lahaina Restoration Foundation and has been restored and furnished to reflect the period. 696 Front St., Lahaina, tel. 808/661-3262. Admission: $3. Open daily 10-4.

Brig Carthaginian II. This vessel was built in Germany in the 1920s and is a replica of the type of ship that brought the New England missionaries around Cape Horn to Hawaii in the early 1800s. A small museum below deck features the "World of the Whale," a colorful mutlimedia exhibit about whaling and local sea life. At dock opposite north end of Wharf St., Lahaina, tel. 808/661-3262. Admission: $3. Open daily 10-4.

Iao Valley State Park. When Mark Twain saw this park, he dubbed it the Yosemite of the Pacific. A beautiful network of well-maintained trails allows you to stop and meditate by the edge of a stream or marvel at the native plants and flowers. Western end of Hwy. 32. Admission free. Open daily 7-7.

Haleakala National Park. A trip to Maui would not be complete without a visit to Mt. Haleakala, the 10,023-ft dormant volcano that is the font from which all of East Maui flowed. The mountain has terrific camping and hiking opportunities, including a trail that loops through the volcanic crater. Haleakala Crater Rd. (Hwy. 378), Makawao, 96768, tel. 808/572-9306. Admission: $4 per car, $2 for hikers and bikers. Park headquarters and visitor center, open daily 7:30-4; Haleakala visitor center, open daily sunrise-3.

Hookipa Beach. There is no better place on this or any other island to watch the world's best windsurfers in action. 1 mi past Paia on Hwy. 36.

Lahaina. This little whaling town has a notorious past; there are stories of lusty whalers who met head-on with missionaries bent on saving souls. The town has renovated most of its old buildings, which date from the time when it was Hawaii's capital. Much of the town has been designated a National Historic Landmark, and any new buildings must conform in style to those dating before 1920. Honoapiilani Hwy., about 3 mi south of Kaanapali.

Napili Beach. This sparkling white beach forms a secluded cove tailor-made for honeymooners.

Tedeschi Vineyards and Winery. You can take a tour of the winery and sample Hawaii's only homegrown wines. The most unusual wine, Maui Blanc, is made from pineapple concentrate. Kula Hwy., Ulupalakua Ranch, tel. 808/878--6058. Admission free. Open daily 9-5, tour daily 9-2:30.

Great·Moments
Flightseeing over the island. Gaze down on the moonscape craters of Haleakala volcano or zoom over rain forests, waterfalls, wide beaches, and emerald green canyons.

Whale-Watching. See humpback whales breach and blow right offshore during the peak of the season, between November and April.


Accommodations

Maui has the state's highest concentration of condominium units. Many are oceanfront and offer the luxurious privacy of a hotel suite without the cost. Maui also has the highest percentage of upscale hotel rooms and the highest accommodation costs of any Hawaiian island. What you'll pay depends in part on where you want to stay. West Maui, the center of tourism, has many rooms, most of which are high-quality and expensive. Two major resort areas anchor West Maui: the Kaanapali Beach Resort, with its six hotels and seven condominiums, and the Kapalua Bay Resort, with two hotels and several condo complexes. East Maui is a mixed bag when it comes to accommodations. You can find just about any rate and just about any degree of comfort, partly because the area is so huge.

 

Items with star are Fodor's Top Picks. Prices refer to the average cost of a standard double room excluding service charges and applicable taxes.

 

Kamaole Sands
2695 S. Kihei Rd.
Kihei, Maui, Hawaii 96753
Phone: 808-874-8700 or 800-367-5004
Fax: 808-879-3273

East Maui
$125-$200
BookThisHotel
This is a huge property for Kihei--11 four-story buildings wrap around a grassy slope on which are clustered swimming and wading pools, a small waterfall, whirlpool baths, and barbecues. All units have kitchens, laundry facilities, and private lanai. Managed by Castle Resorts & Hotels, this condominium property has a 24-hour front desk, an activities desk, and on-property food and beverage. The property is across the road from Kihei Beach. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 11 studios; 211 1-bedroom, 83 2-bedroom, and 4 3-bedroom condo units. Pool, Resort Sports, Restaurant/Food. 4 tennis courts.
 
Kula Lodge
RR 1, Box 475, Kula
Maui, Hawaii 96790
Phone: 808-878-2517 or 800-233-1535
Fax: 808-878-2518

East Maui
$125-$200
This venue isn't typically Hawaiian: The lodge resembles a chalet in the Swiss Alps, and two of its five units have a gas fireplace. Charming and cozy, in spite of the nontropical ambience, this is a perfect spot for a romantic interlude. Units are in two wooden cabins; four have lofts in addition to the ample bed space downstairs. On three wooded acres, the lodge has views of the valley and ocean enhanced by the surrounding forest and tropical gardens. The property has a restaurant and lounge, as well as a gift shop and a protea store that will pack flowers for you to take home; units do not have phones or TVs. Credit cards accepted: MC, V. 5 units. Restaurant/Food.
 
Wailea Villas
3750 Wailea Alanui Dr.
Wailea, Maui, Hawaii 96753
Phone: 808-879-1595 or 800-367-5246
Fax: 808-874-3554

East Maui
$125-$200
The Wailea Resort opened with three fine condominiums, calling them, appropriately, Wailea Ekahi, Wailea Elua, and Wailea Ekolu (Wailea One, Two, and Three)--and now includes three more: Grand Champion, Makena Surf, and Polo Beach Club. All have beautifully landscaped grounds, large units with exceptional views, and access to one of the island's best beaches. Wailea Elua is usually considered the nicest of the properties, with more expensive furnishings and rates to match. The three original villas are an expansive property, with all the amenities of the fine Wailea Resort, including daily maid service and a concierge. Credit cards accepted: MC, V. 9 studios; 94 1-bedroom, 157 2-bedroom, and 10 3-bedroom apartments. Pool.
 
star Mana Kai-Maui
2960 S. Kihei Rd.
Kihei, Maui, Hawaii 96753
Phone: 808-879-1561 or 800-525-2025
Fax: 808-874-5042

East Maui
$75-$125
This lodging is a real find in Kihei, partly because of the property itself and partly because it sits on the end of one of the nicest beaches in the state, just down the strip from the Renaissance Wailea. Here you can get a studio without a kitchen, or a one- or two-bedroom unit with a kitchen. The decor is modest--what people in the Islands might call typical tropical--but the view of the ocean right beyond the lanai overcomes any reservations you might have about the rooms' interiors. The Mana Kai has a very good beachfront restaurant, open for all meals. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 98 units. Pool, Water Sports, Restaurant/Food. Lobby lounge, fans, beach.
 
Maui Lu Resort
575 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei
Maui, Hawaii 96753
Phone: 808-879-5881 or 800-922-7866
Fax: 808-879-4627

East Maui
$75-$125
The first hotel in Kihei and now operated by Aston Resorts, this place is reminiscent of a rustic lodge. The main lobby was the summer home of the original owner--a Canadian logger--and over the years, the Maui Lu has added numerous wooden buildings and cottages to its 28 acres. Of the 120 rooms, 50 are right on the beach, and some have their own private coves. The rest are across Kihei Road, on the main property. In addition, 16 large, one-bedroom cottages have a garden setting and screened-in lanai. The decor isn't fancy, but it isn't motel-tacky either. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 120 rooms. Water Sports, Resort Sports, Restaurant/Food. Lobby lounge, refrigerators, in-room safes, pool, 2 tennis courts, beach.
 
Aston Wailea Resort
3700 Wailea Alanui Dr.
Wailea, Maui, Hawaii 96753
Phone: 808-879-1922 or 800-922-7866
Fax: 808-874-8331

East Maui
Over $200
The tropical lobby and interior spaces showcase a remarkable collection of Hawaiian and Pacific Rim artifacts. All the spacious rooms have private lanai and are styled with a tropical theme in wicker and beige. The grounds are beautiful, with walks along paths accented with palm, banana, and torch ginger. There are golf privileges at three nearby courses, as well as tennis privileges at the Wailea Tennis Club. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 516 rooms with bath. Pool, Water Sports, Health Club/Spa, Restaurant/Food. Hot tub, beach.
 
star Four Seasons Resort
3900 Wailea Alanui
Wailea, Maui, Hawaii 96753
Phone: 808-874-8000 or 800-334-6284
Fax: 808-874-6449

East Maui
Over $200
This is a Maui favorite, partially because of its location, on one of the Valley Isle's finest beaches with all the amenities of the well-groomed Wailea Resort, including access to three 18-hole golf courses and a tennis club with three championship courts. The property itself has great appeal, with terraces, courtyards, gardens, waterfalls, and fountains. Nearly all the rooms have an ocean view and combine traditional style with tropical touches. You'll find terry-cloth robes and Japanese yukata (short robes) in each room. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 380 rooms. Bar, Pool, Water Sports, Resort Sports, Health Club/Spa, Restaurant/Food. 2 tennis courts, beach.
 
star Grand Wailea
3850 Wailea Alanui Dr.
Wailea, Maui, Hawaii 96753
Phone: 808-875-1234 or 800-888-6100
Fax: 808-874-2442

East Maui
Over $200
Sunny opulence is everywhere at this 42-acre resort. Elaborate water features include a 2,000-ft multilevel "canyon riverpool" with slides and grottoes. Magnificent gardens are dotted with quiet enclaves for swing settees. The Spa Grande cossets guests with rejuvenating offerings, from aerobics classes to exotic water-and-massage therapies. Luxury pervades the spacious ocean-view rooms, beautifully outfitted with such amenities as an overstuffed chaise longue, a comfortable writing desk, and an oversize marble tub and separate shower. Guests have access to three 18-hole golf courses, and tennis privileges are available. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 761 rooms. Bar, Pool, Water Sports, Health Club/Spa, Restaurant/Food. Beach, children's programs, chapel.
 
Heavenly Hana Inn
Box 790, Hana
Maui, Hawaii 96713
Phone: 808-248-8442

East Maui
Over $200
An impressive Japanese gate marks the entrance at this upscale inn. The three suites, one a two-bedroom unit, all have TVs. Decor is spare, with Japanese overtones; the furniture was built by Hana residents. Credit cards accepted: No credit cards. 3 suites.
 
star Hotel Hana-Maui
Box 9, Hana
Maui, Hawaii 96713
Phone: 808-248-8211 or 800-321-4262
Fax: 808-248-7264

East Maui
Over $200
One of the best places to stay in Hawaii is this small, secluded hotel in Hana surrounded by a 7,000-acre ranch. The original hotel buildings have white plaster walls and trellised verandas, while inside, the spacious rooms have bleached wood floors, furniture upholstered in natural fabrics, and such decorator touches as fine art and orchids. The newer Sea Ranch Cottages across the road surround a state-of-the-art fitness center. A shuttle carries guests to a secluded beach nearby. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 96 large units. Bar, Pool, Water Sports, Resort Sports, Health Club/Spa, Restaurant/Food. Massage, tennis courts, exercise room, horseback riding, jogging, beach, library.
 
Kea Lani Hotel Suites & Villas
4100 Wailea Alanui
Wailea, Maui, Hawaii 96753
Phone: 808-875-4100 or 800-882-4100
Fax: 808-875-1200

East Maui
Over $200
This Moorish-domed, all-suite resort offers seclusion and privacy at oceanside two- and three-bedroom villas, each with its own small pool and within easy reach of attractions in Wailea and West Maui. Accommodations in the main hotel are spacious one-bedroom suites with dining lanai and marble bathrooms. The resort has three pools; the one with the swim-up bar is connected by a curving water slide to one with aqua games for families. The third pool is a quiet oasis reserved for adults. Guests have access to three 18-hole golf courses, and tennis privileges are available. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 413 suites, 37 villas. Pool, Beauty Salon, Water Sports, Health Club/Spa, Restaurant/Food. 2 lounges, deli, in-room VCRs, refrigerators, 2 hot tubs, beach, shops, children's programs.
 
Maui Prince
5400 Makena Alanui Rd.
Makena, Maui, Hawaii 96753
Phone: 808-874-4111 or 800-321-6284
Fax: 808-879-8763

East Maui
Over $200
BookThisHotel
The attention to service, style, and presentation are apparent from the minute you walk into the delightful open-air lobby of the hotel. Rooms on three levels surround the courtyard, which is home to a Japanese garden with a bubbling stream. Each evening a small ensemble performs chamber music in the courtyard. Room decoration is understated, in tones of mauve and beige. Unfortunately, there's an earth berm between the hotel and the beach--part of the agreement the hotel had to make with the zoning commission and local residents--so an ocean view isn't possible from the first floor. Credit cards accepted: AE, DC, MC, V. 290 rooms. Pool, Water Sports, Resort Sports, Restaurant/Food. 2 18-hole golf courses, 6 tennis courts, beach.
 
Renaissance Wailea Beach Resort
3550 Wailea Alanui Dr.
Wailea, Maui, Hawaii 96753
Phone: 808-879-4900 or 800-992-4532
Fax: 808-874-6128

East Maui
Over $200
BookThisHotel
On fantastic Mokapu Beach, most of the hotel's rooms are contained in a seven-story T-shape building. Tapestries and gorgeous carpets enhance the public areas; outdoors, you'll find exotic gardens, waterfalls, and reflecting ponds. The VIP Mokapu Beach Club building houses 26 luxury accommodations and has its own concierge, pool, and beach cabanas. Guest rooms are decorated in shades of cream and each has a lanai. Guests have access to the nearby golf and tennis facilities. The splendid Raffles restaurant is located here. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 345 rooms. Pool, Water Sports, Health Club/Spa, Restaurant/Food, Travel Services. Lounge, refrigerators, hot tub, basketball, Ping Pong, shuffleboard, beach, children's programs.
 
Aloha Cottages
Hana
Maui, Hawaii 96713
Phone: 808-248-8420

East Maui
Under $75
If you want to meet the people in little Hana town, check into one of these cottages, run by Fusae Nakamura. Tourism is Mrs. Nakamura's way of earning extra money for her family now that she's retired, and she takes it seriously. The one three-bedroom and three two-bedroom units and one studio all have kitchens or kitchenettes. The rooms are sparsely furnished but clean and adequate. The carefully tended fruit trees on the neighboring property provide a special touch--Mrs. Nakamura often supplies her guests with the harvest, which includes papaya, bananas, and avocados. Credit cards accepted: No credit cards. 5 cottages. Kitchenettes.
 
Kaanapali Beach Hotel
2525 Kaanapali Pkwy.
Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-661-0011 or 800-262-8450
Fax: 808-667-5978

West Maui
$125-$200
This property is right in the middle of all the Kaanapali action and offers much more reasonable rates than its neighbors. Instead of glitz and flash, you'll find a comfortable hotel with a friendly Hawaiian staff. The hotel conducts complimentary classes in hula, lei making, ukulele playing, and more. Guests have privileges at the two 18-hole Kaanapali golf courses. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 430 rooms. Pool, Water Sports, Restaurant/Food. Lobby lounge, beach.
 
Napili Kai Beach Club
5900 Lower Honoapiilani Rd.
Napili Bay, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-669-6271 or 800-367-5030
Fax: 808-669-5740

West Maui
$125-$200
These lodgings on 10 beautiful beachfront acres maintain a loyal following. Hawaiian-style rooms are done in seafoam green, mauve, and rattan; shoji doors open onto your lanai, with the beach and ocean right outside. Packages that include a car, breakfast, and other extras are available to guests who stay five nights or longer. Credit cards accepted: AE, MC, V. 162 rooms. Pool, Water Sports, Resort Sports, Health Club/Spa. Kitchenettes, hot tub, 2 putting greens, beach.
 
Papakea Beach Resort
3543 Honoapiilani Hwy.
Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-669-9680 or 800-367-5637
Fax: 808-669-0751

West Maui
$125-$200
This resort is an active place to stay if you consider all the classes held here, such as swimming, snorkeling, and pineapple cutting. In Honokowai, Papakea has built-in privacy because its units are spread out among 11 low-rise buildings on some 13 acres of land. You aren't really aware that you're sharing the property with 363 other units. Bamboo-lined walkways between buildings and fish-stocked ponds create a serene mood. There's a two-day minimum stay. 36 studios; 224 1-bedroom and 224 2-bedroom units. Pool, Water Sports, Resort Sports, Health Club/Spa. Hot tubs, saunas, putting green, 4 tennis courts, beach.
 
Royal Lahaina Resort
2780 Kekaa Dr.
Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-661-3611 or 800-447-6925
Fax: 808-661-3538

West Maui
$125-$200
The lanai at this Outrigger Hotels property afford stunning ocean or golf-course views. What distinguishes the Royal Lahaina are the two-story cottages, each divided into four units; the bedrooms open to the trade winds on two sides. The upstairs units each have a private lanai, and downstairs units share. The walkway to the courtyard wedding gazebo is lined with stepping stones engraved with the names of past brides and grooms and their wedding dates. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 592 rooms. Pool, Water Sports, Resort Sports, Restaurant/Food. 18-hole golf course, tennis courts, beach.
 
Lahaina Hotel
127 Lahainaluna Rd.
Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-661-0577 or 800-669-3444
Fax: 808-667-9480

West Maui
$75-$125
Honolulu businessman Rick Ralston, also responsible for the rebirth of the Manoa Valley Inn on Oahu, has stocked this 12-room Maui property with antique beds, wardrobes, and chests, as well as delightful country-print curtains and spreads. Downstairs, the trendy David Paul's Lahaina Grill, near the lively corner of Front Street and Lahainaluna Road, attracts diners. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, MC, V. 12 rooms. Restaurant/Food.
 
Pioneer Inn
658 Wharf St.
Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-661-3636 or 800-457-5457
Fax: 808-667-5708

West Maui
$75-$125
Built in 1901, the inn's dockside ambience capitalizes on Lahaina's 19th-century whaling days. Owner Howard Lennon is renovating rooms and making structural repairs to upgrade the property. All rooms are now air-conditioned, and New England-style mahogany furnishings recapture Lahaina's missionary era. Rates for the small hotel rooms have increased, but most still rent for under $100 a night. You might not want to spend your entire vacation here, as the area can be a bit noisy in the evenings, but for a night or two of bargain-price historic atmosphere, the place can't be beat. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 34 rooms. Restaurant/Food.
 
star Plantation Inn
174 Lahainaluna Rd.
Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-667-9225 or 800-433-6815
Fax: 808-667-9293

West Maui
$75-$125
Charm and luxury set apart this inn reminiscent of a Southern plantation home. Filled with Victorian and Far East furnishings, it's set on a quiet street in the heart of Lahaina. Secluded lanai draped with hanging plants face a central courtyard, pool, and garden pavilion perfect for morning coffee. Each guest room or suite is decorated differently, with hardwood floors, French doors, antiques, four-poster beds, and ceiling fans. Some have kitchenettes and Jacuzzis. Breakfast at nearby Lahaina Coolers restaurant is included in the room rate, and downstairs one of Hawaii's best French restaurants, Gerard's, adds to the allure. Credit cards accepted: AE, MC, V. 18 rooms. Pool, Health Club/Spa, Restaurant/Food. Refrigerators, hot tub, free parking.
 
star Embassy Suites
104 Kaanapali Shores Pl.
Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-661-2000 or 800-462-6284
Fax: 808-667-5821

West Maui
Over $200
This all-suite hotel with spacious one- and two-bedroom apartments may be Maui's best-kept secret. On the beach north of Kaanapali and 2 mi south of the Kapalua-West Maui Airport, the bright pink 12-story structure is made up of three wings, each surrounding a tropical atrium laced with koi-filled streams and waterfalls, and each served by two glass-enclosed elevators. Each suite's lanai, accessible from the living room and bedroom, affords spectacular ocean and mountain views. Rooms are decorated in olive and tan. Inviting touches include an oversize bathroom with large soaking tub and glass-enclosed shower, a minikitchen, an entertainment center, and wicker chaises longues. The rates encompass a hearty cooked-to-order omelet breakfast buffet each morning and a two-hour manager's cocktail party each evening. Guest privileges to a nearby 18-hole golf course and tennis courts are also included, and the hotel has a rooftop 18-hole miniature golf course. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 413 units. Pool, Water Sports, Health Club/Spa, Restaurant/Food. In-room modem lines, fans, in-room VCRs, hot tub, exercise room, beach, shops, video games, children's program (ages 4-10), coin laundry, shuttle service.
 
Hyatt Regency Maui
Kaanapali Beach Resort
200 Nohea Kai Dr.
Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-661-1234 or 800-233-1234
Fax: 808-667-4499

West Maui
Over $200
BookThisHotel
A recent $16 million face-lift upgraded public spaces and guest rooms, improved access for people with disabilities, and added some new facilities--an outdoor Jacuzzi, a wedding gazebo, and a beachfront bar--to this renowned Maui fantasyland filled with art, waterfalls, and a collection of exotic animals, including penguins. The 750,000-gallon pool is something every honeymooning couple should have access to--there's a secret, romantic grotto made more secluded by a waterfall cascading over the opening, as well as a 150-ft water tube slide, a swinging rope bridge, and a swim-up cocktail bar. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 815 rooms. Bar, Pool, Water Sports, Resort Sports, Health Club/Spa, Restaurant/Food. In-room safes, 12 no-smoking floors, 2 golf courses, 6 tennis courts, beach, shops, library, children's program (ages 3-12), chapel.
 
Kaanapali Alii
50 Nohea Kai Dr.
Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-667-1400 or 800-642-6284
Fax: 808-661-1025

West Maui
Over $200
Yes, this is a condominium, but you'd never know it; the four 11-story buildings are put together so well you still have the feeling of seclusion. Instead of tiny rooms, you can choose between one- and two-bedroom apartments. Each features lovely amenities: a chaise in an alcove, a bidet, a sunken living room, a whirlpool, oak kitchen cabinets, and a separate dining room. Run by a company called Classic Resorts, the Kaanapali Alii is maintained like a hotel--with daily maid service, an activities desk, and a 24-hour front desk. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 264 units. Pool, Water Sports, Resort Sports, Health Club/Spa. Sauna, 18-hole golf course, 6 tennis courts, beach.
 
Kapalua Bay Hotel
1 Bay Dr.
Kapalua, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-669-5656 or 800-367-8000
Fax: 808-669-4694

West Maui
Over $200
BookThisHotel
Built in 1978 fronting "America's Best Beach" at lovely Kapalua Bay, this hotel has a real Maui feel to it: the exterior is all understated white and natural wood. The open lobby, filled with flowering vanda and dendrobium orchids, has a view of the ocean beyond. The plantation-style rooms are decorated in Hawaiian floral motifs and all have views of Lanai and Molokai. A shopping plaza just outside the main hotel entrance has some fine restaurants and boutiques. Guests receive preferred rates and tee times at three 18-hole golf courses in Kapalua. Credit cards accepted: AE, DC, MC, V. 209 rooms. Pool, Water Sports, Resort Sports, Restaurant/Food. 6 tennis courts, beach.
 
Kapalua Bay Villas
1 Bay Dr.
Kapalua, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-669-5656 or 800-367-8000
Fax: 808-669-4694

West Maui
Over $200
Privately owned and individually decorated one- and two-bedroom units may be rented through the Kapalua Bay Hotel. Condos are assigned to one of five luxury categories and regularly inspected to ensure that standards are maintained. Renters enjoy a free shuttle to the hotel and guest rates for golf, tennis, and other hotel amenities. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 125 units.
 
Maui Marriott
100 Nohea Kai Dr.
Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-667-1200 or 800-228-9290
Fax: 808-667-8300

West Maui
Over $200
Rooms here are large and tastefully done in pastel tones and bamboo furnishings, and nearly 90% have ocean views. Besides enjoying access to a beachside massage tent and privileges at two 18-hole golf courses in Kaanapali, guests can join classes featuring aerobics; hula; Hawaiian arts, crafts, and language; food preparation; and a number of sports. The best thing here, however, is the service: the staff is genuinely friendly and helpful. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 720 rooms. Pool, Water Sports, Resort Sports, Health Club/Spa, Restaurant/Food. 2 lobby lounges, 2 hot tubs, 5 tennis courts, beach, bicycles, shops, children's program (ages 5-12).
 
star Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua
1 Ritz-Carlton Dr.
Kapalua, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-669-6200 or 800-241-3333
Fax: 808-665-0026

West Maui
Over $200
BookThisHotel
This beachfront hotel features spacious, comfortable rooms with oversize marble bathrooms, lanai overlooking the three-level pool, and all the grace, elegance, and service that this classy hotel chain is known for. Most rooms have ocean views. Guests on the Club floors have a private lounge with complimentary snack and beverage service all day long. All guests have golf privileges at three 18-hole courses in Kapalua. In 1996 this property received its first Five-Diamond rating from AAA. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 548 rooms. Pool, Water Sports, Resort Sports, Health Club/Spa, Restaurant/Food. 5 lounges, beauty salon, 10 tennis courts, beach, shops, children's programs.
 
Sheraton Maui
2605 Kaanapali Pkwy.
Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 97671
Phone: 808-661-0031 or 800-782-9488
Fax: 808-661-0458

West Maui
Over $200
Reopened in December 1996 after a two-year, $150 million redevelopment, this property is spectacular. Gold and rust tones accent custom-made wicker furnishings in each room, most with direct ocean views. In the lush gardens you'll find a 142-yard freshwater swimming lagoon and the famous Puu Kekaa sunset cliff-diving ceremony. The Sheraton's 53-ft catamaran takes off regularly for snorkel, champagne sunset, and seasonal whale-watch sails; there are guest privileges at two 18-hole golf courses nearby. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 510 rooms. Pool, Water Sports, Resort Sports, Health Club/Spa, Restaurant/Food. 3 lounges, in-room safes, refrigerator, 3 tennis courts, fitness center, beach, summer children's programs.
 
Westin Maui
2365 Kaanapali Pkwy.
Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Phone: 808-667-2525 or 800-228-3000
Fax: 808-661-5831

West Maui
Over $200
This is a hotel for active people who like to be out and about and won't spend all their time in their rooms, which are rather small for the price. The landscaping is lush; there are abundant waterfalls--15 at last count--and lagoons. A valuable Asian and Pacific art collection is displayed throughout the property. Guests have privileges at two 18-hole golf courses in Kaanapali. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. 761 rooms with bath. Pool, Beauty Salon, Water Sports, Health Club/Spa, Restaurant/Food. 4 lobby lounges, hot tub, beach, children's programs.
 

Restaurants

Maui's trendsetting dining revolves around Hawaii Regional cuisine, Pacific Rim cooking, which combines native fruits and vegetables with classic European or Asian preparations--spawning such dishes as ahi (yellowfin tuna) carpaccio, breadfruit soufflé, and papaya cheesecake. Some of the island's best restaurants are in hotels, and since many properties sit right on the beach, you'll often have the benefit of an oceanfront ambience. Of course you can find plain old local-style cooking on the Valley Isle. A multitude of greasy spoons offer cheap, authentic local food, what residents call a "plate lunch"--macaroni salad, two scoops of rice, and an entrée of, say, curry stew, teriyaki beef, or kalua (roasted) pig and cabbage. Few restaurants on Maui require jackets. An aloha shirt and pants for men and a simple dress or pants for women are acceptable in all but the fanciest establishments.

 

Items with star are Fodor's Top Picks. Prices refer to the average cost of a three-course dinner per person excluding drinks, gratuity, and applicable sales tax.

 

Hamburger Mary's Under $15
2010 Main St., Wailuku
Maui, Hawaii Central Maui
Phone: 808-244-7776 American
 

Besides specializing in--what else--burgers, this quirky little eatery, easy to find and decorated with an assortment of '40s collectibles, serves tasty breakfasts, salads, fresh fish, and vegetarian dishes all proudly made from scratch. It's a fun, festive, and friendly place where you can dine until midnight on Friday and Saturday and get a jolt of caffeine from the espresso bar at sunrise. Credit cards accepted: MC, V.

 
Wunderbar Cafe $15-$30
89 Hana Hwy., Paia
Maui, Hawaii Central Maui
Phone: 808-579-8808 Continental
 

Don't miss this pub-style eatery in the picturesque town of Paia on Maui's north shore. Antique mirrors, a bust of Lenin, a grand piano, and an outdoor Biergarten are all part of the eclectic decor. When you do get around to eating--and sampling a hearty German beer--you'll find that this restaurant has a talented French chef who prepares an international array of goodies including sashimi, steamed clams Mediterranean, spaghetti bolognese, and Indian curry sausage. Daily fish selections come fresh from the market across the street, and warm bread arrives at your table direct from the kitchen's oven. Live piano music fills the air from 7 to 9 every Friday night. Credit cards accepted: AE, MC, V.

 
Marco's Grill & Deli $15-$30
444 Hana Hwy., Kahului
Maui, Hawaii Central Maui
Phone: 808-877-4446 Italian
 

This convenient eatery outside the Kahului airport is home to some of the best-priced and best-tasting Italian fare on Maui. Fettuccine alfredo, linguine and sausage, and vodka rigatoni are all on the extensive menu, along with an unforgettably good reuben sandwich and the best Greek salad you'll ever find. The local business crowd fills the place for breakfast, lunch, and dinner; it's become so popular that a second Marco's will open soon in Kihei. Look for the green awning. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
Chart House $30-$50
500 N. Puunene Ave., Kahului
Maui, Hawaii Central Maui
Phone: 808-877-2476 Steak
 

Of the three Chart House locations, this one gets the best reviews from locals. Overlooking Kahului Harbor and decorated with the model ships, boat hulls, and surf prints expected of a harborside steak house, this branch offers big lunch portions and hearty fish, steaks, and prime rib dinners--along with their famous mud pie dessert. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, MC, V.

 
Saeng's Thai Cuisine $15-$30
2119 Vineyard, Wailuku
Maui, Hawaii Central Maui
Phone: 808-244-1567 Southeast Asian
 

Making a choice from the six-page menu here requires determination, but the food is worth the effort, and most dishes can be tailored to your taste buds: hot, medium, or mild. Begin with spring rolls and a dipping sauce; move on to entrées such as Evil Prince Chicken (cooked in coconut sauce with Thai herbs) or red curry shrimp, and finish up with tea and tapioca pudding. The dining room is decorated with Asian artifacts, flowers, and a waterfall, and tables on a veranda will satisfy outdoor lovers. Credit cards accepted: AE, MC, V.

 
Siam Thai $15-$30
123 Market, Wailuku
Maui, Hawaii Central Maui
Phone: 808-244-3817 Southeast Asian
 

Behind a somewhat weathered storefront you'll find some of the best Thai food on Maui. This local favorite serves traditional chicken-coconut soup, beef and chicken sautéed with ginger and bamboo shoots, curries, and vegetarian dishes--about 60 selections in all. The food tends to be spicy, the portions small, and huge crowds arrive at lunchtime. Some patrons opt for takeout because there's not much in the way of decor. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
A Saigon Café $15-$30
1792 Main St., Wailuku
Maui, Hawaii Central Maui
Phone: 808-243-9560 Southeast Asian
 

The only storefront sign announcing this small, delightful hideaway is one reading "open." Once you find it, treat yourself to Banh Hoi Chao Tom, more commonly called shrimp pops burritos (ground marinated shrimp, steamed and grilled on a stick of sugarcane). It's fun and messy. You might also be in the mood for Thai or vegetarian fare. They have that, too. The interior is decorated in white with Vietnamese carvings and other interesting artwork. Credit cards accepted: D, MC, V.

 
Joe's Bar & Grill $30-$50
131 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-875-7767 American
 

With friendly service, a great view of Lanai and dishes such as New York steak with caramelized onions, wild mushrooms, and Gorgonzola cheese crumble, there are lots of reasons to stop in at this spacious, breezy spot. Owners Joe and Bev Gannon, who run the immensely popular Haliimaile General Store, have brought their flair for food home to roost in this treetop-level restaurant at the Wailea Tennis Club, where you can dine in comfort while watching exciting court action from a front-row balcony seat. Credit cards accepted: AE, MC, V.

 
Hapa's Brewhaus & Restaurant $15-$30
Lipoa Center, 41 E. Lipoa St., Kihei
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-879-9001 American
 

Maui's newest microbrewery is on tap with lagers such as Maui Moonset, Paradise Pale, and Black Lava; a comprehensive selection of wines; and an assortment of great eats that includes pizza, calzone, pastas, BBQ ribs, chicken teriyaki burgers, vegetarian stir fry, fish tacos, sashimi, potato pancakes, lobster bisque, and a host of other munchies. The roomy facility also offers a game room with one pool table and some dartboards, and live entertainment from 9:30 PM to 1 AM Monday through Saturday. Credit cards accepted: D, DC, MC, V.

 
Curbside Cafe On-Line Under $15
Maui Research & Technology Center
590 Lipoa Pkwy., Kihei
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-875-2415 American
 

Instead of riding the big waves, try surfing the Net at this interactive eatery almost hidden in the Maui Research & Technology Center. Access the Web or your e-mail on two free-of-charge computers, one Mac and one PC. For more than brain food, munch on tasty sandwiches while you sip a flavored latte or cappuccino. Hot lunches such as marinara meatballs and spaghetti, fettuccine Alfredo, or teriyaki vegetables are $4-$6. Also on the menu are a variety of salads, including quinoa chicken Caesar--a healthy mix of light grains, avocado, and greens with a homemade dressing. Try to avoid the midday rush, when seating is at a premium; there's space for just 20 patrons. Credit cards accepted: No credit cards.

 
Sandcastle at Wailea Under $15
3750 Wailea Alanui, Wailea
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-879-0606 American
 

Tucked away in the middle of the Wailea Shopping Village, this convenient eatery serves tasty burgers and fries, creative salads, and hefty sandwiches in an indoor garden-style setting that is surprisingly secluded considering the bustling shopping activity outside. The regular clientele is a mix of both tourists and folks who work in the area. Credit cards accepted: D, MC, V.

 
Raffles Over $50
Stouffer Wailea Beach Resort
3550 Wailea Alanui Dr.
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-879-4900 Continental
 

Always an excellent choice for fine dining, elegant surroundings, and windows that look out over the ocean, this award-winning restaurant can be counted on to provide the best of whatever you order: filet mignon, lamb chops, seafood, or one of many Hawaii regional cuisine dishes. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
Seasons Over $50
Four Seasons Resort Maui
3900 Wailea Alanui, Wailea,
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-874-8000 Continental
 

Acclaimed executive chef George Mavrothalassitis plies his skills here after a long stint at La Mer, Hawaii's only AAA Five Diamond restaurant, at the Halekulani hotel in Waikiki. Standout dishes marry fresh Island ingredients with flavors from Provence (Chef Mavro's homeland), China, Japan, Thailand, and the Pacific islands. Sensational ocean vistas add to the delicious ambience. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
star A Pacific Cafe $30-$50
Azeka Place II Shopping Center
1279 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-879-0069 Pacific Rim
 

Hawaii Regional cuisine, the culinary edge in the Islands these days, began with a few innovative Island chefs such as Jean-Marie Josselin, whose creations are now served by four establishments. Flavor combinations such as pan-seared mahimahi with garlic, a sesame crust, and lime-ginger sauce; roasted duck with garlic mashed potatoes and sun-dried-cherry and star-anise sauce; and seared scallops in crisp polenta crust with caramel sauce and seared corn and avocado salsa are just some of the mouthwatering choices. The restaurant's tropical, whimsical decor has been described as "the Flintstones meet the Jetsons." Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
star Haliimaile General Store $30-$50
Haliimaile Rd., 5 mi south of Hana Hwy.
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-572-2666 Pacific Rim
 

What do you do with a lofty wooden building that used to be a camp store in the 1920s and is surrounded by a tiny town in the middle of sugarcane and pineapple fields? If you're Bev Gannon, you turn it into a legendary Island fine-dining tradition. The Szechuan barbecued salmon and rack of lamb Hunan style are classics. For a filling and innovative appetizer, try sashimi Napoleon, a tower of crispy won ton layered with smoked salmon. The outstanding house salad is topped with Maui onions, mandarin oranges, walnuts, and crumbled blue cheese on request. Unless you enjoy curious stares and visits by other diners, don't sit at the corner table smack dab in front of the "general store's" shelves, which are stocked with ceramic teapots and other folksy items for sale. Credit cards accepted: MC, V.

 
Hula Moons $30-$50
Aston Wailea Resort
3700 Wailea Alanui
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-874-7876 Pacific Rim
 

This delightful oceanside spot is full of memorabilia chronicling the Island life of Don Blanding, a writer, artist, and poet who became Hawaii's unofficial ambassador of aloha. The outstanding menu blends fresh, locally-grown produce with Pacific Rim and European preparations. Try the scallops with Chinese black bean sauce, charbroiled T-bone steak with pineapple compote and Molokai sweet potatoes, or a just-off-the-boat fresh catch of the day. You can dine inside, poolside, or outside on the terrace while you choose your vintage from an extensive wine list. A torch-lighting ceremony and hula performances take place Tuesday through Saturday evenings. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
Carelli's Over $50
2980 S. Kihei Rd., Keawakapu
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-875-0001 Italian
 

Dine beachside with the sound of gentle waves washing the shore, while sampling steamed clams in white wine, butter, and garlic; pasta stuffed with shrimp and scallops and served with marinara and alfredo sauces; or grilled chicken in herbed cream sauce with Italian squash. Carelli's is a gourmet's delight, but if you'd like to know how good the cuisine here really is, just ask some of the customers: Jack Nicholson, Goldie Hawn, and Joe Montana, to name a few. Credit cards accepted: AE, MC, V. Reservations essential.

 
Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli $15-$30
1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-572-0220 Italian
 

In true Italian style, congenial co-owner Steven Burgelin is on hand most evenings to greet and chat up guests at this neighborhood spot on the slopes of Haleakala. If you're pining for pasta, imagine chicken and porcini mushrooms stuffed into bite-size ravioli and topped with a sage butter sauce, or ricotta and spinach dumplings languishing in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce. Another savory flavor here is pizza cooked in a brick wood-burning oven imported from Italy. Don't even try to resist desserts such as flourless chocolate mousse cake with raspberry sauce. Casanova is also known for it's extra-large dance floor and entertainment by well-known Island and mainland musicians. Credit cards accepted: D, DC, MC, V.

 
star Polli's Under $15
1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-572-7808 Mexican
 

This Mexican restaurant in the paniolo town of Makawao not only has a wide selection of delicious taste treats such as seafood enchiladas, chimichangas, stuffed quesadillas, and fajitas, but also offers to prepare any item on the menu with seasoned tofu or vegetarian taco mix instead of meat--and the meatless dishes are just as good. A special treat are the bunuelos--light pastries topped with cinnamon, maple syrup, and a scoop of ice cream. The intimate interior plastered with colorful sombreros and other knickknacks will make you think you've wandered into a south-of-the-border cantina. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
star Maalaea Waterfront Restaurant $30-$50
50 Hauoli St., Maalaea
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-244-9028 Seafood
 

At this harborside establishment fresh fish is prepared in a host of scrumptious ways: Baked in buttered parchment paper; imprisoned in ribbons of angel hair potato; or topped with tomato salsa, smoked chili pepper, and avocado are some of the choices. Tourists come early to dine at sunset on the outdoor patio; local residents pack the place later. The varied menu also offers outstanding rack of lamb, veal scaloppine, and seafood lasagna. The place is a challenge to find: less than a mile from the junction of routes 30 and 31, veer left into Maalaea Village and follow the blue Waterfront Restaurant signs to the third condominium. Stairs at the end of the parking lot lead to Maui's best-kept dining secret. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
star Mama's Fish House $30-$50
799 Poho Pl., Kuau
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-579-8488 Seafood
 

As you enjoy the landscaped grounds and ocean views at this cliff-top restaurant, check out the stone path engraved with whimsical Hawaiian geckos. But the real treat here is the fish, prepared in seven mouthwatering ways--baked in a creamy herb sauce, sautéed with macadamia nuts, or grilled with spicy wasabe butter, for example. That's why this thatched-hut restaurant with a Hawaiian nautical theme is packed every evening. The chicken, steak, and kalua pig dishes are worth trying, as well. About 1 1/2 mi east of Paia on the Hana Highway, look for Mama's classic '40s-era Ford trucks parked on grassy knolls at both entrances--self parking and valet. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. Reservations essential.

 
Makawao Steak House $15-$30
3612 Baldwin Ave.
Maui, Hawaii East Maui
Phone: 808-572-8711 Steak
 

Where better to go for great steaks than ranch country? This paniolo restaurant, nestled in a restored house that was built in 1927 on the slopes of Haleakala, serves downright good prime rib, rack of lamb, and fresh fish with consistency you can count on and friendly service. Three fireplaces and an intimate lounge create a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
star Longhi's $30-$50
888 Front St., Lahaina
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-667-2288 American
 

This Lahaina establishment has been around since 1976, serving great Italian pasta as well as sandwiches, seafood, beef and chicken dishes. All the pasta is homemade, and the in-house bakery is constantly busy preparing breakfast pastries, desserts, and hot-out-of-the-oven bread. Longhi's is the only restaurant on Maui to win Wine Spectator's prestigious Best Award of Excellence. Even on a warm day, you won't need air-conditioning here with two spacious, breezy, open-air levels to choose from. The black-and-white tile floors are a nice touch. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
star Lahaina Coolers $15-$30
180 Dickenson St., Lahaina
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-661-7082 American
 

This breezy little cafe with a surfboard hanging from its ceiling serves up such tantalizing fare as shrimp pesto linguine with prawns, basil, garlic, and cream; and Evil Jungle Pasta (grilled chicken in spicy Thai peanut sauce), as well as pizzas, steaks, burgers, and desserts such as a chocolate taco filled with tropical fruit and berry "salsa." Don't be surprised to see a local fisherman walk through the dining area with a freshly caught snapper, or a harbor captain reeling in a hearty breakfast. Credit cards accepted: AE, DC, MC, V.

 
Lahaina Provision Co. $15-$30
Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kaanapali
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-661-1234 American
 

Chocolate lovers make a beeline for this open-air garden restaurant and cocktail lounge from 6-11 PM while the Chocoholic Bar is open. Where else can you get so much chocolate all in one place--brownies; double-fudge cake; white-chocolate mousse; chocolate-chip cookies; chocolate candies; and ice cream with hot fudge, bittersweet chocolate, or white chocolate-coconut sauce. The regular lunch and dinner menu offers a tasty salad bar, sandwiches, steak, and seafood. It's OK to go casual, but footwear is required. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
star Swan Court Over $50
Hyatt Regency Maui
Kaanapali Beach Resort, 200 Nohea Kai Dr.
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-661-1234 Continental
 

You enter this elegant eatery via a grand staircase and what seems like a tropical, cathedral-ceiling ballroom, where black and white swans glide across a waterfall-fed lagoon. The menu applies European and Pacific Rim flavors to fresh, locally grown vegetables, seafood, and meats. Try the crispy scallop dim sum (a type of won ton) in plum sauce; creamy lobster coconut bisque brimming with chunks of fish, lobster, shrimp and button mushrooms; or char-broiled lamb chops in macadamia nut satay sauce. There's an extensive wine list to complement your menu choices. Arrive early and ask for a table on the left side, where the swans linger in the evening. The restaurant is also open for a breakfast buffet. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
star Bay Club $30-$50
Kapalua Bay Resort, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-669-8008 Continental
 

A candle-lit dinner at this lovely spot perched on a rocky promontory overlooking the ocean is a romantic way to cap a fun-filled day in the sun, especially if you've been swimming at crescent-shaped Kapalua beach just a few yards from the door. However, you won't want to bring sandy feet into the richly paneled, casually elegant interior since there is a dress code for dinner. Anything on the menu is recommended, especially the fresh catch of the day. For a truly relaxing evening with a view, lean back, sip a glass of cabernet or Riesling from the excellent wine list, and watch the sun slip gloriously past the Maui horizon. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V. Reservations essential.

 
Plantation House Restaurant $30-$50
Plantation Course Clubhouse
2000 Plantation Club Dr.
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-669-6299 Continental
 

It's hard to decide which is best here, the food or the view. Rolling hills, grassy volcanic ridges lined with pine trees, and fairways that appear to drop off into the ocean provide an idyllic setting for entrées such as duck breast "under the influence" of cabernet-port reduction sauce, roasted Molokai pork chops with mushroom mashed potatoes and caramelized Maui onion sauce, and fresh fish charbroiled on soba noodles and vegetable stir fry with ginger-sesame broth. This high up in the West Maui mountains, the breeze through the restaurant's large shuttered windows can be cool, so you may want to bring a sweater, or sit by the fireplace. Credit cards accepted: AE, MC, V.

 
Anuenue Room $30-$50
Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-669-1665 Pacific Rim
 

In Hawaiian, anuenue means "rainbow." It's an apt name for the Ritz-Carlton's signature restaurant, where you may be lucky enough to catch a rainbow arcing over the ocean. In the meantime, you can enjoy a rainbow of menu choices such as sea scallop and monkfish tioro (pasta in spicy tomato broth), poha berry glazed lamb rack, or Dungeness crab cakes. Service is excellent, as you might expect at the Ritz. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
star Avalon Restaurant and Bar $30-$50
844 Front St., Lahaina
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-667-5559 Pacific Rim
 

Ferns and fronds form the tropical decor and lend a relaxing ambience to California chef Mark Ellman's home-grown eatery tucked away in a quiet courtyard off bustling Front Street. Signature items at this trendy locale include shrimp with shiitake mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes; and whole opakapaka (snapper) in garlic and black bean sauce. A combination of fresh fruits in caramel sauce paired with macadamia nut ice cream is the only dessert. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
David Paul's Lahaina Grill $30-$50
127 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-667-5117 Pacific Rim
 

When Crazy Shirts magnate Rick Ralston was looking for a chef to open a new restaurant in Lahaina in 1990, David Paul wasn't interested--until he saw the location in the romantic, Victorian-era Lahaina Hotel that Ralston had restored. Since then, the popular restaurant has expanded twice, and offers a well stocked wine cellar, in-house bakery, wine and cheese tastings on weekdays from 5-6 PM, piano stylings on a baby grand in the lounge, and free "Fear of Cooking" classes. The award-winning menu is revised seasonally, but you can count on finding the signature tequila shrimp and firecracker rice along with scrumptious desserts such as triple-berry pie. Credit cards accepted: AE, DC, MC, V.

 
Hula Grill $30-$50
Whalers Village
2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-667-6636 Pacific Rim
 

This family-oriented, bustling, 300-seat restaurant set in a re-created 1930's Hawaiian beach house is the informal counterpart to genial chef-restaurateur Peter Merriman's first popular eatery on the Big Island, and the food is every bit as good. South Pacific snapper, baked with tomato, chili, and cumin aioli, is served with black bean, Maui onion, and avocado relish. Or try a slab of spare ribs, steamed imu-style in banana leaves, then kiawe grilled with mango barbecue sauce. Every table has an ocean-beach view, or you can actually dine on the beach, toes in the sand, at the Barefoot Bar, where Hawaiian entertainment is presented every evening. Credit cards accepted: AE, MC, V.

 
Roy's Kahana Bar & Grill $15-$30
Kahana Gateway Shopping Center
4405 Honoapiilani Hwy., Kahana
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-669-6999 Pacific Rim
 

Anyone who's ever eaten at one of Roy Yamaguchi's restaurants knows how good the cuisine is, and this Roy's is no exception. Asian-Pacific specialties such as shrimp with sweet, spicy chili sauce keep regulars returning for more. Locals say this is a great place to get together with friends for fun and good food. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
Roy Yamaguchi's Nicolina $15-$30
Kahana Gateway Shopping Center
4405 Honoapiilani Hwy., Kahana
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-669-5000 Pacific Rim
 

Instead of adding on to his established restaurant next door, innovative chef Roy Yamaguchi just started a whole new restaurant that caters to the spice-loving crowd. Indulge on grilled Southwestern chicken with chili hash and smoked tomato sauce, or smoked and peppered duck with ginger sweet potatoes and Szechuan-Mandarin sauce. You may even find some zippy salsas and a jalapeño pepper or two. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
Scaroles Ristorante $15-$30
930 Wainee St., Lahaina
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-661-4466 Italian
 

A longtime favorite of visitors and locals, this place doesn't look like much on the outside, but inside, the friendly atmosphere and authentic northern Italian cooking make up for any lack of chic and draw plenty of loyal fans. In fact, some customers have complained that the bustling place is too small, and being a sardine, Italian style, is no fun. The pasta, chicken, veal, and seafood dishes are all worthy choices, as is the ricotta cheesecake for dessert. They'll even allow you to bring your own libations. Credit cards accepted: D, DC, MC, V. Reservations essential.

 
Aloha Cantina $15-$30
839 Front St., Lahaina
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-661-8788 Mexican
 

Masses of Mexican-themed posters and artifacts hang on the walls while simulated palm tree trunks hold up a fake leafy ceiling sparkling with hot pepper-shaped tree lights. On your first breakfast visit try a stack of macadamia nut pancakes covered with coconut syrup. For lunch, order the grilled snapper paired with white wine sauce and coleslaw and wrapped in a flour tortilla--in other words, a fish taco. It's a hit. Also on the varied Maui Mex-American menu you'll find a Mexican pizza, a jalapeño garden burger, a chicken Caesar taco, Thai Cobb salad, and tortilla soup. Worth several visits. Credit cards accepted: AE, MC, V.

 
star Lokelani $30-$50
Maui Marriott
100 Nohea Kai Dr., Kaanapali
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-667-1200, ext. 51 Seafood
 

Here you'll find elegant dining with attentive service in a relaxed garden-style atmosphere. The chefs do a standout job melding traditional preparations with Asian and Polynesian flavors. The result includes appetizers such as Asian shrimp stuffed with spicy crabmeat in sweet Thai sauce and banana salsa; ahi tempura with ginger shiitake mushrooms; and grilled Muscovy duck summer rolls filled with papaya, basil, and kaiware sprouts in sweet Thai chili sauce. The menu suggests the perfect wine for each dish, including desserts like chocolate macadamia-nut cream-cheese pie and coffee crème brûlée. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
Pacific'O $30-$50
505 Front St., Lahaina
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-667-4341 Seafood
 

You can sit outdoors at umbrella-shaded tables a few feet from the water's edge, or find a spot inside Pacific'O's light and breezy interior. With protective reefs to keep the swelling nearby seas at bay, it's easy to see why this spot was chosen by King Kamehameha the Great for his personal playground. He would have enjoyed the cuisine, too, which includes the Asian, Polynesian, and European flavors of such delectables as shrimp and basil won ton, banana "imu"-style fish with vanilla bean sauce, ahi parfait with passion fruit dressing, and marinated scallops and shrimps seared with red Thai curry and coconut milk sauce. Live jazz is also on the menu Thursday through Saturday nights from 9 to midnight. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
Erik's Seafood Grotto $15-$30
Kahana Villas
4242 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Kahana
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-669-4806 Seafood
 

This seafood diner is so proud of its large selection of fresh fish, it displays the whole offering nightly as a photo opportunity. Additional house specialties include bouillabaisse chock full of clams, scallops, lobster, shrimp, and fish and served with toasted garlic bread; and cioppino, a seafood stew atop homemade fettuccine. A stop at the oyster bar is a worthwhile detour for half-shells topped with a mayonnaise horseradish sauce and baked with Gruyère cheese. Come to this nautical spot between 5-6 PM and catch the $12.95-$13.95 early bird specials. Credit cards accepted: AE, D, DC, MC, V.

 
Kimo's $15-$30
845 Front St., Lahaina
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-661-4811 Seafood
 

Outstanding seafood is just one of the options here. Also good are Hawaiian-style chicken and pork dishes, burgers, sandwiches, vegetarian pasta, and sashimi. The smoked marlin appetizer is especially tasty. On a warm Lahaina summer day, it's a treat to relax at an umbrella-shaded table on the open-air lanai, sip a pineapple-passion-guava fruit drink, and watch sailboats and parasailers glide in and out of the harbor. Try the signature dessert, Hula Pie: vanilla macadamia-nut ice cream topped with chocolate fudge and whipped cream in an Oreo-cookie crust. Credit cards accepted: AE, DC, MC, V.

 
Orient Express $15-$30
Napili Shores Resort
5316 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Napili
Maui, Hawaii West Maui
Phone: 808-669-8077 Southeast Asian
 

Have your Thai food and enjoy it, too--hot, medium, or mild--at this decidedly Asian locale with red lacquer and yellow flowers evident everywhere. Eating Thai is always an adventure with menu choices such as beef strips marinated in coconut milk and spices, skewered on bamboo sticks and grilled, or shrimp cooked with bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, and dried chilies. Credit cards accepted: AE, MC, V.

 

Fodor's Essential
When to Go: Overview

Hawaii's long days of sunshine, fairly mild year-round temperatures, and activities throughout each season allow for 12 months of pleasurable island travel. The average afternoon temperature during the coldest winter months of December and January is 80°F; during the hottest months of August and September the temperature often reaches 90°F. Slight differences exist when it comes to monthly rainfall, high- and low-season travel rates, and the number of fellow travelers you'll find upon arrival. Winter is the season when most travelers prefer to head for the islands. From mid-December through mid-April, visitors from the mainland and other areas covered with snow find Hawaii's sun-splashed beaches and balmy trade winds particularly appealing. Not surprisingly, this high season also means that fewer travel bargains are available; room rates average 10%-15% higher during this season than the rest of the year.


Fodor's Essential
When to Go: Festivals & Seasonal Events

Winter
DECEMBER
Na Mele O Maui: The first week of December, this Hawaiiana festival at Kaanapali features arts and crafts and classes of schoolchildren competing in Hawaiian song and hula performances. Bodhi Day: The traditional Buddhist Day of Enlightenment is celebrated at temples statewide; visitors are welcome.Christmas: The hotels outdo each other in extravagant exhibits and events such as Santa arriving by outrigger canoe. First Night Honolulu: An alcohol-free New Year's Eve street festival of arts and entertainment at 75 downtown Honolulu locations.

JANUARY
Celebration of Whales: Scientists and conservationists convene at the Four Seasons Resort Wailea for a week of lectures, videos, and whale-watch outings. Visitors are welcome.

Spring
MARCH
Art Maui: This prestigious annual event is held at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center in Kahului. Prince Kuhio Day: March 26, a local holiday, honors Prince Kuhio, who might have been king if Hawaii had not become a U.S. territory and later a state. Instead, he became a congressman. Celebration of the Arts: For three days the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua pays tribute to Hawaii's culture with hula and chanting demonstrations, art workshops, a luau, and Hawaiian music and dance concerts--most activities are free.

APRIL
Buddha Day: Flower pageants are staged at Buddhist temples throughout the Islands to celebrate Buddha's birth.

MAY
Lei Day: The annual flower-filled celebration on May 1 includes music, hula, food, and lei-making competitions with lots of leis on exhibit and for sale, some of them exquisite floral masterpieces.

Summer
JUNE
King Kamehameha Day: Kamehameha united all the islands and became Hawaii's first king, making Hawaii the only state to have a royal background. Parades and fairs abound, and twin statues of the king--one in Honolulu--are draped in giant leis. Kapalua Wine and Food Symposium: Wine and food experts and enthusiasts gather for tastings, discussions, and gourment dinners at the Kapalua Bay Resort.

JULY
Makawao Statewide Rodeo: This old-time Upcountry rodeo, held at the Oskie Rice Arena in Makawao on the July 4 weekend, includes a parade and three days of festivities. Independence Day: The national holiday on July 4 is celebrated with a tropical touch, including fairs, parades, and, of course, fireworks.

JULY-AUGUST
Bon Odori Season: Buddhist temples invite everyone to festivals that honor ancestors and feature Japanese Bon dancing.

AUGUST
Admission Day: The state holiday, on August 18, recognizes Hawaii's statehood.

Autumn
SEPTEMBER
Maui Music Festival: On Labor Day weekend, well-known contemporary jazz, Hawaiian, and other musicians converge on the Kaanapali Beach Resort for two days of nonstop music on several outdoor stages. Taste of Lahaina: Maui's best chefs compete for top cooking honors, and samples of their entries are sold at a lively open-air party featuring live entertainment.

SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER
Aloha Festivals: This traditional celebration, started in 1946, preserves Hawaiian native culture. Crafts, music, dance, pageantry, street parties, and canoe races are all part of the festival.


Fodor's Essential
Arriving & Departing: By Air

Kahului Airport (tel. 808/872-3894 and 808/872-3830) is efficient and remarkably easy to navigate. Its main disadvantage is its distance from the major resort destinations in West Maui. It will take you about an hour, with traffic in your favor, to get to a hotel in Kapalua or Kaanapali, but only 20 to 30 minutes to go to Kihei or Wailea. However, Kahului is the only airport on Maui that has direct service from the mainland.

If you're staying in West Maui, you might be better off flying into the Kapalua-West Maui Airport (tel. 808/669-0623). The only way to get to the Kapalua-West Maui Airport is on an interisland flight from Honolulu, however, since the short runway allows only small planes to land there. The little airport is set in the midst of a pineapple field with a terrific view of the ocean far below and provides one of the most pleasant ways to arrive on the Valley Isle. Three rental-car companies have courtesy phones inside the terminal. Shuttles also run between the airport and the Kaanapali and Kapalua resorts.

Hana Airport (tel. 808/248-8208) isn't much more than a landing strip. Only commuter Aloha IslandAir flies there, landing twice a day from Honolulu (via Molokai and Kahului) and departing 10 minutes later; the morning flight originates in Princeville, Kauai. When there is no flight, the tiny terminal usually stands eerily empty, with no gate agents, ticket takers, or other people in sight. If you are staying at the Hotel Hana-Maui, your flight will be met; if you have reserved a rental car, the agent will usually know your arrival time and meet you. Otherwise you can call Dollar Rent A Car (tel. 808/248-8237) to pick you up.

Maui is part of the world's most isolated chains of islands, so even if you fly directly to the Valley Isle, be prepared for a lengthy flight. From the West Coast, Maui is about five hours; from the Midwest, expect about an eight-hour flight; and coming from the East Coast will take about 10 hours. If you have to connect with an interisland flight in Honolulu, add at least another hour.

Carriers
Make an airline reservation online with Preview Travel.

American carriers flying into Honolulu include the following: United Airlines (tel. 808/242-7911 or 800/241-6522) flies nonstop to Kahului from Los Angeles and San Francisco. American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300) also flies into Kahului, with one stop in Honolulu, from Dallas and Chicago, and nonstop from Los Angeles. Delta (tel. 800/221-1212) has through service to Maui daily from Salt Lake City, Atlanta, and Los Angeles, and one nonstop daily from Los Angeles.

Maui is the most visited of the Neighbor Islands and therefore the easiest to connect to on an interisland flight. Honolulu-Kahului is one of the most heavily traveled air routes in the nation. Continental (tel. 800/525-0280), Hawaiian (tel. 800/882-8811), Northwest (tel. 800/225-2525), and TWA (tel. 800/221-2000) fly from the mainland to Honolulu, where Maui-bound passengers can connect with a 40-minute interisland flight. Interisland flights generally run about $50 one-way between Honolulu and Maui and are available from Hawaiian Airlines (tel. 808/871-6132 or 800/367-5320), Aloha Airlines (tel. 808/244-9071 or 800/367-5250 on U.S. mainland), Aloha IslandAir (tel. 808/669-0255 or 800/652-6541), and Mahalo Air (tel. 808/833-5555).

Between the Airport and Hotels
BY CAR
The best way to get from the airport to your destination--and to see the island itself--is in your own rental car. If you're going to need it for the rest of the trip, you might as well get it right away. Most major car-rental companies have conveniently located desks or courtesy phones at each airport. They also can provide a map and directions to your hotel from the airport.

BY SHUTTLE
If you're staying at the Kaanapali Beach Resort and fly into the Kapalua-West Maui Airport, you can take advantage of the resort's free shuttle and go back to the airport later to pick up your car. During daylight hours, the shuttle passes through the airport at regular intervals.

The TransHawaiian Airporter Shuttle (tel. 808/877-7308 or 800/231-6984) leaves Kahului Airport on the hour 8 AM-4 PM (except 9 AM), bound for the Embassy Suites hotel, with stops in Lahaina and Kaanapali; one-way fare for adults is $13, for children $10. You should call 24 hours prior to departure.

BY TAXI
Maui has more than two dozen taxi companies, and they make frequent passes through the airport. If you don't see a cab, you can call Yellow Cab of Maui (tel. 808/877-7000) or La Bella Taxi (tel. 808/242-8011) for islandwide service from the airport. Call Kihei Taxi (tel. 808/879-3000) if you're staying in the Kihei, Wailea, or Makena areas. Charges from Kahului Airport to Kaanapali run about $49; to Wailea, about $31; and to Lahaina, about $42.


Fodor's Essential
Getting Around: Overview

Maui, the second-largest island in the state of Hawaii, with 729 square mi, has some 120 mi of coastline, not all of which is accessible. Less than one quarter of its land mass is inhabited. To see the island, your best bet is a car.


Fodor's Essential
Getting Around: By Car

Hawaii's drivers are generally courteous, and you rarely hear a horn. People will slow down and let you into traffic with a wave of the hand. A friendly wave back is appreciated and customary. Be sure to buckle up: Hawaii has a seat-belt law for front-seat passengers. Children under age three must be in a car seat, available from your car-rental agency.

Roads and streets, although they may be unpronounceable to the visitor, are at least well marked. Major attractions and scenic spots are marked by the distinctive Hawaii Visitors Bureau sign with its red-caped warrior.

Driving in rush-hour traffic (6:30-8:30 AM and 3:30-5:30 PM) can be frustrating, not only because of the sheer volume of traffic but also because left turns are forbidden at many intersections. Parking along many streets is curtailed during these hours, and towing is strictly enforced. Read the curbside parking signs before leaving your vehicle, even at a meter.

Remember not to leave valuables in your car. Tourists are targets for thieves, because they probably won't be here by the time the case comes to trial, even if the crooks are caught.

Maui has several major roads. Highway 30, the Honoapiilani Highway, goes from Wailuku in Central Maui around the south of the West Maui mountains and up the west coast past Lahaina, Kaanapali, and Kapalua. The road from Kahului to Kihei, Wailea, and Makena is called Highway 311, or the Mokulele Highway. When you reach Kihei, you can take Kihei Road to reach all the lodgings in that town, or you can bypass them on Highway 31 (the Piilani Highway) if you're staying in Wailea or Makena. The latter road is the best on the island in terms of driving because it is wide and less heavily traveled. Another main thoroughfare is the Haleakala Highway (numbered 37, 377, and 378 at different points), which goes between Kahului and Haleakala. Most of the roads on the island have two lanes.

If you're going to attempt the partially paved, patched, and bumpy, and partially dirt-and-gravel road between Hana and Ulupalakua, you'll be better off with a four-wheel-drive vehicle, but be forewarned: rental-car companies prohibit travel on roads they've determined might damage the car, so if you break down, you're on your own for repairs. There are two other difficult roads on Maui: one is Highway 36, or the Hana Highway, which runs 56 mi between Kahului and Hana and includes more twists and turns than a person can count. The other is an 8-mi scenic stretch of one-lane highway between Kapalua and Wailuku on the north side of the West Maui mountains, where you should be prepared to back up to the closest wide spot in the road if you encounter a truck coming in the opposite direction. Take it slow and you should have no problems.

Car Rental
Make a car-rental reservation online with Preview Travel.

During peak seasons--summer and Christmas through Easter--be sure to reserve your car well ahead of time if you haven't booked a room-car package with your hotel. Although you'll generally pay a higher price in the peak seasons, you'll find Maui one of the cheapest U.S. destinations for renting an auto. Expect to pay about $35 a day for a compact car from one of the major companies. You can get an even more inexpensive deal from one of the locally owned budget companies. For these, you'll probably have to call for a shuttle from the airport since most don't have rental desks there. There is a $2 daily road tax on all rental cars in Hawaii.

Budget (tel. 800/527-0700 or, in Canada, 800/268-8900), Dollar (tel. 800/800-4000 in the U.S. and Canada), and National (tel. 800/227-7368) have courtesy phones at the Kapalua-West Maui Airport, while Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131 or, in Canada, 800/263-0600) and Alamo (tel. 800/327-9633) are nearby. All the above, plus Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 or, in Canada, 800/879-2847), have desks at or near Maui's major airport in Kahului. Roberts Tours (tel. 808/523-9323) offers car rentals through package tours. Quite a few locally owned companies rent cars on Maui, including Rent-A-Jeep (tel. 808/877-6626), which will pick you up at Kahului Airport.

U.K. CITIZENS
In the United States you must be 21 to rent a car; rates may be higher if you're under 25. You'll pay extra for child seats (about $3 per day), compulsory for children under five, and for additional drivers (about $2 per day). To pick up your reserved car you will need the reservation voucher, a passport, a U.K. driver's license, and a travel policy that covers each driver.


Fodor's Essential
Practical Information: Visitor Information

On Maui
Maui Visitors Bureau (1727 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku 96793, tel. 808/244-3530, fax 808/244-1337). Aunty Aloha's Breakfast Lu'au (Ka'anapali Beach Hotel, Ka'anapali, tel. 808/242-8437 or 800/993-8338) is a fun and tasty way to learn about exciting and often unpublicized things to do on Maui. The orientation includes live Hawaiian music, a hula show, a comical slide show, and an all-you-can-eat, Island-style breakfast, and runs Monday through Friday at 8:15 AM. The cost is $13.95, and visitors can get two tickets for the price of one if they attend on their first morning in Maui. Visitor Channel Seven televises visitor information 24 hours a day, including video tours, restaurant previews, and activities information.Weather: Haleakala Weather Forecast (tel. 808/871-5054). National Weather Service/Maui Forecast (tel. 808/877-5111).

At Home
IN THE U.S.
Contact the Hawaii Visitors Bureau (Waikiki Business Plaza, 2270 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 801, Honolulu 96815, tel. 808/923-1811). The bureau publishes an official state travel guide, The Islands of Aloha, as well as various brochures, a comprehensive annual calendar of events, an accommodations guide (which includes everything from a property's distance from the beach to its amenities), and a restaurant listing. The bureau also maintains representative and regional offices in New York (350 5th Ave., Suite 1827, New York, NY 10118, tel. 800/353-5846) and in Washington, D.C. (3975 University Dr., Suite 335, Fairfax, VA 22030, tel. 703/287-8711).

IN CANADA
Contact the Hawaii Visitors Bureau (1260 Hornby St., Vancouver, British Columbia V6Z 1W2, tel. 800/353-5846).

IN THE U.K.
Contact the Hawaii Visitors Bureau (Box 208, Sunbury, Middlesex, TW16 5RJ, tel. 0181/941-4009). Send a £2 check or postal order for an information pack.


Fodor's Essential
Practical Information: Packing Tips

You can pack lightly because Hawaii is casual. Sandals or bare feet, bathing suits, and comfortable, informal clothing are the norm.

For Men
In the Hawaiian Islands, there's a saying that when a man wears a suit during the day, he's either going for a loan or he's a lawyer trying a case. Only a few upscale restaurants require a jacket for dinner, and none require a tie. Hawaii regulars wear their jackets on the plane--just in case--and many don't put them on again until the return flight. The aloha shirt is accepted dress in Hawaii for business and most social occasions. A visitor can easily buy one after arriving in Hawaii.

Shorts are acceptable daytime attire, along with a T-shirt or polo shirt. If you want to be marked as a tourist, wear your shorts with dark shoes and white socks. Local-style casual footwear consists of tennis or running shoes, sandals, or rubber slippers. You'll also see a lot of bare feet, but state law requires that footwear be worn in all food establishments.

Pack your toiletries, underwear, and a pair or two of easy-care slacks to wear with those aloha shirts, and you're all set.

For Women
During the winter months, bring a sweater or wrap for the evening because the trade winds cool things off when the sun goes down. If you have an elaborate coiffure, a scarf will help keep it from getting windblown. Sundresses, shorts, and tops are fine for daytime. If you have a long slip, bring it for the muumuu you say you won't buy, but probably will. As for shoes, sandals and tennis or running shoes are fine for daytime, and sandals are perfect for the evening. If you wear boots, you'll wish you hadn't.

If you don't own a pareo, buy one in Hawaii. It's simply a length of light cotton (about 1 1/2 to 2 yards long), usually in a tropical motif, that can be worn as a beach wrap, a skirt, or a dozen other wrap-up fashions. A pareo is useful wherever you go, regardless of climate. It makes a good bathrobe, so you don't have to pack one. You can even tie it up as a handbag or sit on it at the beach.

Don't forget your bathing suit. Sooner or later, the crystal-clear water tempts even the most sedentary landlubber. Of course, bathing suits are easy to find in Hawaii. Shops are crammed with the latest styles. If you normally wear a bathing cap, bring one; you can waste hours searching for one.

Probably the most important thing to tuck in your suitcase is sunscreen. This is the tropics, and the ultraviolet rays are much more powerful than those to which you are accustomed. Doctors advise putting on sunscreen when you get up in the morning. Women can wear it as a moisturizer under makeup. A woman's upper chest area is hypopigmented and should be protected. Don't forget to reapply sunscreen periodically during the day, since perspiration can wash it away. Consider using sunscreens with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 or higher. There are many tanning oils on the market in Hawaii, including coconut and kukui (the nut from a local tree) oils, but doctors warn that they merely sauté your skin. Too many Hawaiian vacations have been spoiled by sunburn.

Hats and sunglasses offer important sun protection, too. Both are easy to find in island shops, but if you already have a favorite packable hat or sun visor, bring it with you, and don't forget to wear it.

Electricity
Overseas visitors will need to bring adapters to convert their personal appliances to the U.S. standard: AC, 110 volts/60 cycles, with a plug of two flat pins set parallel to one another.


Fodor's Essential
Practical Information: Emergencies

Police, fire department, ambulance, and suicide center (tel. 911).

Coast Guard Rescue (tel. 800/552-458).

Hospitals
Hana Medical Center (Hana Hwy., Hana, tel. 808/248-8294). Kula Hospital (204 Kula Hwy., Kula, tel. 808/878-1221). Maui Memorial Hospital (221 Mahalani, Wailuku, tel. 808/244-9056).

Doctors
Doctors on Call (Hyatt Regency Maui-Napili Tower, Suite 100, Kaanapali, tel. 808/667-7676) are doctors serving West Maui.

A walk-in clinic at Whalers Village, West Maui Health Care Center (2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., Suite H-7, Kaanapali, tel. 808/667-9721) was created by two doctors in 1980 to treat tourists in West Maui. The center is open daily 8 AM-10 PM.

Kihei Clinic Medical Services (2349 S. Kihei Rd., Suite D, Kihei, tel. 808/879-1440) is in the central part of the Valley Isle and geared toward working with visitors in Kihei and Wailea.


Fodor's Essential
Practical Information: Money & Expenses

Currency
The basic unit of U.S. currency is the dollar, subdivided into 100 cents. The commonly used paper notes are the $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100 bills. The green-and-white bills are uniform in size and feature the picture of a prominent figure or monument in American history. There are six U.S. coins: the copper penny or cent, the silver nickel (5 cents), the dime (10 cents), the quarter (25 cents), the half dollar, and the rarely used one-dollar coin, also known as the Susan B. Anthony dollar.

Changing Money
In the United States, it is not as easy to find places to exchange currency as it is in European cities. The best strategy is to buy traveler's checks in U.S. dollars before you come to the United States; while the rates may not be as good abroad, the time saved by not having to search constantly for exchange facilities far outweighs any financial loss.

Banks
In general, U.S. banks will not cash a personal check for you unless you have an account at that bank (it doesn't have to be at that branch). Only in major cities are large bank branches equipped to exchange foreign currencies. Therefore, it's best to rely on credit cards, cash machines, and traveler's checks to handle expenses while you're traveling.

Credit Cards
MasterCard is the U.S. equivalent of the Access card in Britain or the EuroCard in other European countries. Visa is the equivalent of the BarclayCard in Britain and the ChargeEx card in Canada.


Fodor's Essential
Practical Information: Tipping

Tipping is common practice. In restaurants, tip waiters about 15% and as much as 20% in very expensive places. The same applies to bartenders, taxi drivers, and hairdressers. Unless otherwise posted, tip $1 per coat at a coat check; 50 cents per bag for bellhops; and $1 a day for maids in upscale hotels. On package tours, drivers and conductors usually get $2-$3 per day from each group member; check first to see if tips are included in the cost. For local sightseeing tours, tip the driver $1 if he or she has been helpful or informative.


Fodor's Essential
Practical Information: Telephones

The country code for the United States is 1. All Hawaiian Island telephones have the area code 808; this area code must be used for interisland calls, as well as calls from other area codes. Many toll-free 800 or 888 numbers for hotels and other establishments may not be dialed from within the Islands. For facilities that have both an 808 phone number and an 800 or 888 number, use the 808 number once you arrive in Hawaii.

Long Distance
International calls can be dialed directly from most phones; dial 011 followed by the country code and then the local number. To have an operator assist you, dial 0. To avoid hotel surcharges, you can place a call directly through a long-distance company--AT&T, MCI, or Sprint--if you've got an account with them. If you don't have an account, you can charge a call to a major credit card by calling AT&T directly at 800/225-5288.

Operator Assistance
For operator assistance, dial 0. To find out a telephone number, call directory assistance at 555-1212; if you're requesting a number from another area code, don't forget to dial 1 and the area code first. If you want to reverse the charges (known in the U.S. as a collect call), dial 0 and then the rest of the number, and an operator or automated voice will assist you.

Pay Phones
The most common pay phone in operation today is the coin-operated type. To use one, pick up the receiver, deposit your money (the minimum amount is posted on the machine), and then dial the number. An automated message will alert you to deposit more money, if needed. Telephone-card phones, so popular elsewhere in the world, are becoming increasingly common. Grocery stores, newsstands, and other establishments sell the disposable phone cards, available in varying amounts from $5 and up. To activate the card, dial the code number and follow the instructions printed on the card.

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